'A Virtual Card for You' Virus Hoax

Subject: Virus Warning

CNN announced. PLEASE SEND THIS TO EVERYONE ON YOUR CONTACT LIST !!

A new virus has just been discovered that has been classified by Microsoft as the most destructive ever! This virus was discovered yesterday afternoon by McAfee and no vaccine has yet been developed. This virus simply destroys Sector Zero from the hard disk, where vital information for its functioning are stored.

This virus acts in the following manner: It sends itself automatically to all contacts on your list with the title "A Card for You." As soon as the supposed virtual card is opened, the computer freezes so that the user has to reboot. When the keys or the reset button are pressed, the virus destroys Sector Zero, thus permanently destroying the hard disk.

Yesterday in just a few hours this virus caused panic in New York, according to news broadcast by CNN. This alert was received by an employee of Microsoft itself. So don't open any mails with subject: " A Virtual Card for You. " As soon as you get the mail, delete it. Even if you know the sender.

Please pass this mail to all of your friends. Forward this to everyone in your address book. I'm sure most people, like myself, would rather receive this 25 times than not at all.

Also: Intel announced that a new and very destructive virus was discovered recently. If you receive an email called "An Internet Flower For You", do not open it. Delete it right away! This virus removes all dynamic link libraries (.DLL files) from your computer. Your computer will not be able to boot up!!

This is posted as a warning. Lets hope that none of us gets touched by any of this.


Important 2007 Update: While the 2000-vintage email warnings discussed below about a supposed "Virtual Card for You" virus were confimred hoaxes, a fresh crop of bogus e-greeting card announcements began appearing in 2007 which contain links that actually do expose users to Trojan horses and other dangerous malware.
Read more...

Comments: With so many real viruses wreaking havoc on computers and networks worldwide, it's a shame we have to cope with false warnings like the above. There is no such threat as the "Sector Zero" or "A Card for You" (aka "A Virtual Card for You") virus. If you receive a copy of this alert, just delete it.

As a general rule, acting on forwarded email warnings is the worst way to try to protect yourself from viruses - and not just because the majority of emailed virus warnings are hoaxes. In a sense, all such warnings - even the accurate ones - are misleading, because they leave the false impression that as long as you're on the alert for file attachments with specific names, you will be safe. The reality is that you put yourself at risk by downloading any executable file by any name - and some viruses are even designed to rename themselves or email copies of themselves under randomly varying names.

Much, much, much more important than heeding emailed virus warnings are the simple preventative measures of:

  1. Always being very careful what you download
  2. Scanning your hard drive regularly with up-to-date antivirus software.

source from here

WARNINGS!

The first manufacturing process for Delkin’s SensorWand left a hard seam on the pad which can touch the sensor with potential for scratching. If you have any of this variety, please return the SensorWands only for replacements.


Be Extra Cautious when using the following chemicals as there are no MSDS (material/chemical safety data sheets) provided to the resellers yet to the consumer. These are: Sensor Clean™, Chamber Clean™, Smear Away™ and VDust Formula™ all by Visible Dust.


We would STRONGLY recommend staying away from the "Hurricane" brand of blowers as there has been numerous reports of this brand of blower spewing particles of rubber onto the sensor. UPDATE: As of Nov 2006 we are still getting reports of this happening.


PRECAUTION: The #1 issue consumers are having with the "Brush Method" is the brush leaving smear marks on their sensor. This is caused by a contaminated brush and there are 3 main ways a brush becomes contaminated:
  1. By Canned Air. I have yet to see any canned air that is contaminant free 100% of the time and this is why we (www.cleaningdigitalcameras.com) do NOT recommend any type or brand. Sure some have a lesser potential to spew contaminants than others. A hand blower like a Giotto's Rocket or better yet, a foot pump like a Sevylor have 1000 times less chance of contaminating your brush and they are much cheaper.
  2. By a Dirty Mirror Box. Your mirror and shutter mechanisms have been oiled & greased as they do have moving parts. Sometimes this lubricant travels to places in the mirror chamber that can be accessed by the brush when trying to clean the sensor. To eliminate this, you need to clean the mirror chamber with a product similar to Eclipse™ on a Chamber Swab™ or Visible Dust's Chamber Clean. Cleaning the mirror chamber first before using a brush for the first time is mandatory on the Canon 1D, 1Ds, 1D Mark II and 1Ds Mark II cameras do to the type of paint Canon used in this area on these models.
  3. By Human Skin. DO NOT touch the fibers of the brush with any part of your skin, no matter how recently you washed. There are natural oils on your skin and these show up as smears on your sensor. If you are reading this after the fact (you already touched the fibers of the brush against your skin) you need to wash the brush before using it on the sensor.

Do Not use just any brush to clean the sensor, make sure you buy one that has gone through some rigorous testing and is backed by a reputable firm. There are some people out there that will go down to the local five and dime and buy some brushes then try to sell them out of their garage/internet or on eBay for the purpose of cleaning sensors. They have nothing to lose when YOU screw up YOUR sensor with their inferior items.
Do Not use air compressors or canned air when cleaning optics. You might get lucky some of the time, but both will release unwanted moisture under certain circumstances. This is why we highly recommend the use of foot or hand powered blowers.
Follow the instruction for putting your camera into its "CLEANING MODE". If you try using bulb or a long shutter speed to access the sensor, it is energized and generating static electricity which attracts dust. Attempting to clean the sensor without using the cleaning mode may result in the shutter closing on your cleaning utensil resulting in an expensive repair. There is also the possibility of damage by too much light if sensor is energized and exposed to direct bright light.
Do Not Cut the Pec*Pads as this will cause them to lose their lint free status as cutting will cause fraying. If you do attempt to cut one, make sure you fold the cut end in so that it is not exposed.
Only Kodak, Fuji and Leica, support the consumer in using the same method that they use in-house for cleaning the sensor. All the other manufacturers only support the non-physical contact use of a hand blower. If Canon, Nikon, Pentax or Sigma, can tell that you have touched the sensor, your warranty is void. On the other hand Photographic Solutions Inc., guarantees that you won't damage your camera if you use their SensorSwabs and Eclipse.
When wrapping your SensorWand™ or home made tool, DO NOT touch with your hand, the area of the Pec*Pad™ that will be coming in contact with the sensor. Body oils can be transferred to the sensor this way.

source from here

How to put your camera into its cleaning mode

Canon EOS D30 Operators Manual: Page 117, covers how to put it into cleaning mode.
Canon EOS D60 Operators Manual: Page 115, covers how to put it into cleaning mode.
Canon Digital Rebel/D300 Operators Manual: Page 34, covers how to put it into cleaning mode.
Canon Digital Rebel XT/D350 Operators Manual: Page 39, covers how to put it into cleaning mode.
Canon EOS 10D Operators Manual: Page 156, covers how to put it into cleaning mode.
Canon 20D Operators Manual: Page 36, covers how to put it into cleaning mode.
Canon EOS 1D Operators Manual: Page 150, covers how to put it into cleaning mode.
Canon EOS 1Ds Operators Manual: Page 150, covers how to put it into cleaning mode.
Canon EOS 1D Mark II Operators Manual: Page 40, covers how to put it into cleaning mode.
Canon EOS 1Ds Mark II Operators Manual: Page 40, covers how to put it into cleaning mode.

Fuji
Fuji S1 CCD Cleaning Instructions
Fuji S2 CCD Cleaning Instructions
Fuji S3 Owners Manual: Page 125, covers how to put it into cleaning mode.

Kodak
Kodak DCS 300, 500 & 600 Series Digital Cameras CCD Cleaning Instructions

Minolta
Maxxum 7D Owners Manual Page 110, covers how to put it into cleaning mode.

Nikon
Nikon D100 Operators Manual: Page 163, covers how to put into cleaning mode.
Nikon D1X Operators Manual: Page 196, covers how to put it into cleaning mode.
Nikon D1H Operators Manual: Page 196, covers how to put it into cleaning mode.
Nikon D2H Operators Manual: Page 238, covers how to put it into cleaning mode.
Nikon D70 Operators Manual: Page 194, covers how to put it into cleaning mode.
Nikon D50 Operators Manual: Page 117, covers how to put it into cleaning mode.
Nikon D2X Operators Manual: Page 252, covers how to put it into cleaning mode.

Olympus
Olympus E1 Reference Manual: Page 171, covers how to put it into cleaning mode.
Olympus EVOLT E-300 Instruction Manual: Page 182, covers how to put it into cleaning mode.

Pentax
Pentax *istD Operators Manual: Page 149, covers how to put it into cleaning mode.
Pentax *istDS Operators Manual: Page 180, covers how to put it into cleaning mode.
Pentax *istDL Operators Manual: Page 181, covers how to put it into cleaning mode.

Sigma
Sigma SD9: Page 101, covers how to put it into cleaning mode.
Sigma SD10: Page 101, covers how to put it into cleaning mode.


source from here

Building Your Own Swab/Swipe/Wand

First, we must realize that when using devices to clean the sensor that have not been recommended by the manufacturer it can void your manufacturer warranty. I hate to sound so negative, but I don't want anybody to say they weren't warned. On the other hand, what is the alternative, send it back to the manufacturer every time and pay $75+ hoping it comes back cleaner? As we already know most photographers will try to clean their own cameras. If you have Fuji or Kodak cameras, you're covered, because they support the consumers cleaning the sensor (with Pec*Pads™ and Eclipse™). For those with Canon, Nikon, Pentax or Sigma cameras, you still can have your cleaning endeavor covered by a warranty, if you use SensorSwabs and Eclipse, as the manufacturer of these products, Photographic Solutions Inc., warranties your camera, if you use their products as directed.
For those wishing to make your own Sensor Cleaning Tool, you must first consider what material to make it out of. No matter what material you use for a base, it should be wrapped with a Pec*Pad™. Sure, you could use regular lens tissue, but the financial savings is no where worth the difference in quality. Pec*Pads™ retail for only $.07 each, so this is an area I don't recommend pinching pennies. Let's get back to the materials for the wand itself. Your choices are basically Rubber, Wood and Plastic and I recommend them in that order.
Rubber

Lets start with our favorite, rubber. A small jar/icing spatula seems to work best, the handle is fairly rigid and the blade is a firm rubber. You can pick them up at most "Ace Hardware" stores for a buck or less. Easy to make and a product that should allow enough pressure and yet shouldn't scratch. Some have expressed interest in the Rubbermaid brand of spatula. As you can see from the picture above they are a bit fatter than the NORPRO brand. I compare using the Rubbermaid Spatula for cleaning sensors to using a pair of needle nose pliers to remove a splinter. Remember, you are working down in a small hole and need to see what your doing. The rubber is very simple to cut. I like using a tool I bought from Sears. The "Handi-Cut" gives you quite a bit of leverage and cuts a nice straight line. I have found that a straight edge razor being used like a guillotine works well. I don't recommend a pair of regular scissors, as they tend not to cut a straight line when going through rubber. The photos to the left show the simple 3 steps to cutting your own SensorWand™. Square the tip off, cut the desired width, then put a chisel point on the tip.

Wood
How about wood? This is Nikon's preferred tool for in-house cleaning and in the kits they sell in Japan. The upper most item in the photo above is the Nikon Factory 7.5mm wide sensor cleaning tool which is basically a chopstick with a chiseled tip. The lower item is of a standard tung depressor with one end cut off square. Wood is stiffer than rubber but softer than plastic, so you will need to be cautious. Make sure you don't put too much downward pressure as to crack the filter.

Plastic
Plastic is the hardest of the three and the favorite of Thom Hogan. Of course these are free with every visit to Wendy's. If you want to use plastic, please sand/file/melt the tip to help eliminate any sharp burrs.
Wrapping Your Wand
First, I must re-emphasize the need to do this on a clean surface, the cleaner your work surface the better your results can be anticipated. For illustration purposes only, I'm demonstrating the steps to wrap your own wand with a piece of yellow paper instead of the Pec*Pad™ you should be using. DO NOT touch with your hand, the area of the Pec*Pad™ that will be coming in contact with the sensor. Body oils can be transferred to the sensor this way.
  1. Fold the Pec*Pad™ in half
  2. With the folded edge facing you, take the right hand side and fold about 3/4" to the left at a 30º up angle.
  3. Place the SensorWand™ inside the first fold and take the left hand corner and everything up to the tip of the SensorWand™ to the right at a 30º up angle.
  4. Take the corner facing farthest right and wrap it tightly around the SensorWand™ watching to not deform the tip. Place a piece of Scotch tape or a rubber band around the Pec*Pad™ to hold it in place.
  5. Push the SensorWand™ into the Pec*Pad™, creating a nice tight squared off tip. Be very cautious not to tear the pad and expose the wand tip.


How To Create A Test Image
To Check For Dust
To make a test image, you can use about any lens you want but an non-wide angle lens works better then a wide angle just because of the normal falloff found in most wide angle lenses. You want as much of an even exposure as possible from corner to center. The second consideration is minimum aperture opening; we suggest a lens that will stop down to f/22 or greater. We have found that a great subject to shoot for the test, is your monitor. Seeing that you already have to use a computer to view your test, there is no need to go elsewhere to make the test. You already have a willing and qualified subject right in front of you, why not use it. Prepare your monitor for shooting the test:
  • Create a new image in Photoshop
  • Fill it with white (most any solid color will do, but we prefer a lighter one)
  • Zoom in until it fills your screen

Set the camera to the following:
  • Mode - Aperture Priority
  • Setting - Aperture to minimum f/22-f/45
  • Lens - Manual Focus set to closest focus setting (if shooting the blue sky, then infinity)
  • Features - Turn "OFF" all special function like "sharpening"
  • Take Picture - shoot camera facing your monitor. Depending how bright your monitor is, your exposure may be a couple seconds. During this exposure, move your camera back and fourth being careful to not to point the lens outside of your white box. Moving the camera during the exposure insures that you are not taking a picture of dirt on your monitor. This should be done within a matter of an inch or two from your monitor.
  • Photoshop - Take the image into Photoshop and do a ++ for "auto level" You can lighten or darken if needed.
  • Inspect Image - You can now see where you do or do not have dust. Remember that what you are looking at is an image that is flipped 180° (top to bottom) from when you're looking straight in on your sensor. What shows on the bottom of the image will be towards the top of the camera and visa versa...


Before Converting in Photoshop
Converting in Photoshop


After Photoshop and Before Cleaning
After Cleaning